A guide to Ceglie Messapica and the Itria Valley: history, cuisine, and day trips

Hidden among drystone walls and ancient olive trees in the Itria Valley, the town of Ceglie Messapica offers visitors a slice of authentic Puglia. Founded by the Messapian people and developed under Norman and later Ducal rule, its whitewashed alleys, arches, and stairways still exude the scent of freshly baked bread. This guide takes you beyond a quick weekend visit: you’ll learn about the town’s history, culinary traditions, annual festivals, and the best excursions to neighbouring villages.

Discovering history and architecture

The historic core is small but packed with sights. Begin in Piazza Vecchia, once the hub of public life, and continue to the Church of San Rocco and the Ducal Castle, which was built by the Normans and remodelled in the 16th century. The castle’s 11th‑century tower stands guard over a maze of lanes and stone stairways. Inside the aristocratic quarter you can spot noble palaces such as Palazzo Allegretti, Palazzo Epifani and Palazzo Perrone, whose façades bear coats of arms and carved balconies. Walk east to the Belvedere del Monterrone, a panoramic terrace overlooking the Itria Valley. In the surrounding countryside you’ll find numerous specchie – mysterious dry‑stone mounds-built centuries ago – along with archaeological sites and clusters of trulli and lamie (traditional rural dwellings).

If you’re fascinated by ancient architecture, take a short drive to Alberobello where hundreds of trulli – white cylindrical houses topped by grey, conical roofs – create a fairy‑tale landscape. The town’s historic quarters of Aia Piccola and Monti are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of their unique dry‑stone construction techniques. Another must‑visit is Martina Franca, famous for its Baroque gates, the Palazzo Ducale in Piazza Roma and an atmospheric old town; the city also produces savoury delights such as capocollo and bombette and even its own DOC white wine.

Gastronomy and local products

Ceglie’s reputation as a culinary hotspot is well-deserved. Its most famous sweet is the Biscotto Cegliese, a biscuit recognised by the Slow Food movement. The dough combines toasted almonds, eggs, honey, and lemon zest, while the centre hides a jam made from cherries or black grapes.. Crispy on the outside and soft inside, it encapsulates centuries of tradition. Other regional dishes to sample include:

• Orecchiette with broccoli rabe – tiny ear‑shaped pasta sautéed with garlic, chilli and local extra‑virgin olive oil.

• Lampascioni in oil – slightly bitter bulbs of a wild hyacinth served as antipasti.

• Fava bean purée with chicory – a simple dish of mashed fava beans and wild chicory dressed with olive oil.

Beyond Ceglie, other towns in the valley offer their own specialities: Martina Franca is known for capocollo and grilled bombette (small pork rolls), while Ostuni and Cisternino are dotted with butchers who barbecue meats to order. Complement your meal with wines such as Martina Franca DOC or the white and rosé labels from Locorotondo.

Nature and outdoor adventures

The Itria Valley’s gently rolling landscape invites exploration on foot or by bike. From Ceglie you can follow country lanes lined by millennia‑old olive trees, trulli and fortified farmhouses to neighbouring towns. Farmers still use trulli and lamie as storage and shelter – evidence of the region’s agricultural heritage. In spring, wildflowers carpet the fields; autumn brings the olive harvest, while winter offers crisp air and quiet trails. For a coastal escape, the Blue Flag beaches of the Adriatic are within a 30–40-minute drive from town.

Day trips from Ceglie Messapica

One of the joys of staying in Ceglie is its proximity to several enchanting villages:

• Locorotondo – This circular hilltop village is named for its concentric layout of white houses with pitched roofs. The Church of San Giorgio sits at its highest point, and nearby Villa Comunale offers views of the Itria Valley. Around the outskirts you’ll spot clusters of trulli known as jazzilli.

• Cisternino – Famed for its spontaneously built white terraces and external staircases, Cisternino’s Piazza dell’Orologio features a slender clock tower. Stroll to the Villa Comunale for panoramic countryside views and visit the 13th‑century church of San Nicola.

• Ostuni – The “White City” sits on a hilltop above an expanse of olive groves. Its labyrinthine streets lead to a 15th‑century Gothic cathedral with an elaborate rose window. Just beyond are Blue Flag beaches and crystal waters.

• Martina Franca – Known for its baroque gateways and the grand Palazzo Ducale, the town also delights foodies with specialities like capocollo and bombette. Its narrow lanes hide churches and palaces, while vineyards around the town produce DOC wines.

• Alberobello – A UNESCO‑listed village made almost entirely of trulli. Wander through the districts of Aia Piccola and Monti to appreciate this unique architecture and visit the trullo churches.

All of these towns are within 10–30 km of Ceglie, making them easy day trips by car or electric bike.

Practical tips for your visit

Ceglie is most easily reached by car: it is around 30 km from Brindisi and 45 km from Taranto. The closest train station is Ostuni; from there, buses or taxis complete the journey. Brindisi airport is about a 40‑minute drive. In the old town you’ll find family‑run B&Bs, agriturismi in the countryside and renovated masserie.

Sample itinerary

• Day 1 – Ceglie Messapica: Arrive and settle into your accommodation. Spend the afternoon exploring the historic centre, including Piazza Vecchia, the Ducal Castle, and the churches. Dine at a local osteria and sample orecchiette and Biscotto Cegliese.

• Day 2 – Countryside and gastronomy: Hire bicycles or join a guided tour through olive groves and trulli. Visit a family‑run farm to learn about olive oil production and enjoy a lunch of lampascioni, fava bean purée, and other specialities. In the evening, take part in the CegliEstate events or enjoy live music in the square.

• Day 3 – Day trips: Choose one or two neighbouring towns to explore. For example, visit Locorotondo and Alberobello, or drive to the coast to relax on Ostuni’s beaches. Return to Ceglie for dinner and gelato.

FAQ on Ceglie Messapica and Vall'Itria

When is the best time to visit Ceglie Messapica?
Spring and autumn offer mild temperatures and fewer crowds. Summer is lively thanks to festival programmes and nearby beaches, while winter provides quiet streets and clear light for photography.

How do I reach Ceglie Messapica?
By car it is about 30 km from Brindisi and 45 km from Taranto. Trains stop at Ostuni; from there take a bus or taxi. Brindisi Airport is the nearest airport.

What are the must‑see villages nearby?
Locorotondo for its circular layout, Cisternino for its terraces and grill culture, Alberobello for UNESCO‑listed trulli, Ostuni for its whitewashed hilltop and beaches, and Martina Franca for its Baroque palaces.

Why stay at Aria di Ceglie?
Aria di Ceglie No. 28 is a lovingly restored casa with modern comforts, located in the heart of Ceglie. It sleeps up to four guests and provides an authentic base for exploring the Itria Valley.

Is the area suitable for cycling and hiking?
Yes. Quiet lanes criss‑cross the countryside, connecting olive groves, trulli, and masserie. The terrain is gentle enough for leisurely bike rides and walks.